Effective methods for treating hidradenitis at home. Disruption of internal organs

Instructions

Remember the situations in which skidding may occur. Firstly, this is a sharp turn, so you shouldn't try to go into it at speed. A number of irregularities on the road can also be a reason for skidding. Ruts can also be dangerous, so try not to fall into them. Skidding can occur when driving downhill or on a descent.

First of all, learn to feel the skid. You can feel the turning of the car with your back. Many inexperienced drivers choose the wrong driving position, trying to move as close to the windshield as possible, while leaving a large distance behind them to the seat. Experienced drivers, on the contrary, like to drive the car in a reclining position, sometimes holding the steering wheel with one hand. Remember - none of this is safe, and an incorrect driving position can lead to sad consequences. Therefore, adjust your driver's seat in such a way that you are comfortable, you are in strict sitting position and your back fit tightly to the chair.

As soon as you feel that the car is turning sideways and starting to slide, that is, it is starting to skid, do not under any circumstances try to brake sharply. This can lead to spinning and drifting onto the side of the road or into oncoming traffic. On the contrary, press the gas pedal smoothly, without sudden movements. Do not try to sink it into the floor, otherwise your skid will become rhythmic, that is, from side to side.

When skidding on front-wheel drive, you need to turn the steering wheel in the direction opposite to the skid, while applying gas. As soon as you feel that the car is turning in the opposite direction, release the gas pedal and put the steering wheel straight. After these manipulations, you can stop to take a breath and calm down. When you start moving again, press the gas slowly and remember the rules of behavior on winter roads.

Video on the topic

Related article

Sources:

• front wheel drive skidding

In winter, due to weather conditions, the likelihood extreme situation on the roads it increases many times over. What to do to prevent skidding on a winter road?

Instructions

The most insidious type of drive in terms of causing skidding is rear-wheel drive. Therefore, on turns, you should not sharply increase the “gas” and suddenly release it; it is better to dose the traction smoothly.

If the car does skid, then you need to turn the steering wheel slightly in the direction of the skid and quickly return it back. If you do not do this in time, then another skid is possible, in the other direction, which will be more difficult to cope with. The third swing is almost impossible to “catch”.

Many modern cars are equipped with anti-lock brakes (ABS). If it is absent on a slippery surface, you need to brake as smoothly as possible, avoiding wheel locking. If it does occur, then you should briefly release the brake pedal and then press it again, thus simulating the operation of the ABS.

Do not sharply lower or increase the gearbox gear - an unexpected skid is possible.

Video on the topic

note

Often, the driver’s panic prevents him from competently resisting a skid. Hence the conclusion: in such a situation, it is very important to maintain composure and under no circumstances let go of the steering wheel.

Sources:

• Portal "Driving school"

It was new for the domestic auto industry to use front-wheel drive in car design. But the success of the eights and nines amazed the designers. These cars were superior to the classics in all respects. This applies to comfort, speed, and reliability.

Instructions

Front-wheel drive cars once gained popularity in our country. When the first eights and nines appeared on the roads, many appreciated them. Of course, they were better than kopecks and sixes, but these improvements are associated not only with the use of front-wheel drive. It is worth considering that the car was completely new for those times. The ignition system, the gas distribution mechanism, the layout of the engine, the design of it and the gearbox, all of this was completely new and had not previously been used in the domestic automotive industry. It is also worth paying attention to the more streamlined body shape, spacious interior, and many other little things that improve driving comfort.

Front-wheel drive cars have both longitudinal and transverse engine layout. The second is most typical for small cars, because in a relatively small engine compartment you can place the engine and everything auxiliary equipment. Of course, the layout is such that there is very little space left under the hood, and sometimes there is none at all.

The engine transmits torque to the clutch basket, which contains the driven disc. The input shaft of the gearbox is installed on the driven disk. Special attention attention should be paid to the design of the gearbox. If you compare it with a car gearbox, you can see that the gearbox and drive axle with differential are combined in one unit. This is quite reasonable, but during repairs it causes some difficulties, which relate to removing the box, since it weighs a lot.

The differential is necessary to ensure that the drive wheels rotate at different speeds. If you make a direct transmission of torque, when the wheels rotate equally, it is impossible to turn such a car. For example, when turning right, the right wheel will rotate slower than the left one, because the turning radius of the left wheel is larger and its path will be longer.

The transmission of motion to the wheels is carried out using CV joints, popularly called grenades. These are shafts with ball joints at the ends. One end is installed in the gearbox, and the second in the hub. And the most important thing in front-wheel drive cars is the suspension. As a rule, this is a MacPherson type suspension. It uses a shock absorber strut that is attached to the body through a support bearing. It allows the post to rotate when turning.

The strut has a steering knuckle to which the steering rod is attached. And at the bottom, the shock absorber strut is mounted on the suspension arm using a ball joint. It is also worth paying attention to the steering. Unlike rear-wheel drive cars, it is used here, which has greater reliability. A car with a steering rack is much easier to drive. And you can easily install both hydraulic and electric booster.

Video on the topic

Sources:

• Which drive is better?

A front-wheel drive car has handling characteristics that become evident on slippery surfaces. On a normal, dry surface, when there is no wheel slipping, there are practically no differences in the behavior of a rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive car.

When driving in a straight line, a front-wheel drive car does not tend to skid, even when driving on very slippery roads. When entering a turn on such a surface, a front-wheel drive vehicle may skid.

Car skidding

A skid occurs because when the speed decreases, the car is braked by the engine, the rear wheels are unloaded and lose traction, moving sideways. But a front-wheel drive car can be pulled out of almost any skid using traction. Cornering skills must be firmly established in practice, since the driver instinctively begins to slow down when skidding.

If a skid occurs, the driver of a front-wheel drive car must, without reducing speed, turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skid. If the skid has not reached a large angle, then the car can be leveled by simply increasing the speed slightly. There is no need to make corrective movements with the steering wheel.

Car demolition

You need to increase the speed to eliminate skidding when turning, otherwise the drive wheels will slip. As a result, demolition may occur, that is, total loss traction of the front wheels, and the car will become uncontrollable.

Drift can also occur when entering a slippery turn on high speed. In this case, the car will drift towards outside turn.

How not to lose control of the car

For warning critical situations with a front-wheel drive car skidding and drifting, the driver must know

Treatment of hidradenitis at home is possible with mandatory hygiene standards. If the inflammation is caused by a cut, scrape, or blockage sweat glands, a skin injury, was obviously caused by staphylococcal infection. The first remedy for cuts is a solution of iodine, brilliant green or a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide.

In the future, the affected area should be wiped disinfectants and apply fresh dressings to it as often as possible (up to four times a day). Keep your body clean, wash with soap and your body will get rid of infection faster.

Hidradenitis. Treatment of hidradenitis at home

Hidradenitis- inflammation of the sweat glands caused by infection with staphylococcus and neglect of personal hygiene rules, but there are other pathogens of this disease.

The appearance of hidradenitis can be caused by several factors:

1. A sharp decrease in immunity.
2. Stress.
3. Low temperatures.
4. Clothing inappropriate for the weather, hypothermia.
5. Lack of personal hygiene.
6. Damage skin(cuts, wounds).
7. Hormonal imbalance in the body.

By eliminating even a few of the listed conditions for the occurrence of infection, you will increase the chances of recovery when treating hidradenitis at home.

Treatment of hidradenitis at home: symptoms

Hidradenitis is accompanied by the formation of an inflamed node under the skin, under the armpits, and leads to painful sensations during physical activity patient. Most often occurs in people aged 30-40 years. If hidradenitis is not treated, including at home, this is fraught with exacerbation of the disease: the compaction increases, turning into swelling, and suppuration of several points in the affected area is also possible. To reduce pain, you can elevate your affected arm, if possible.

Symptoms of hidradenitis:

1. Headache.
2. Increased body temperature.
3. Frailty of the body, weakness.
4. When the abscess is opened and the pus is cleared, blood may be released.

Treatment of hidradenitis at home: recipes

Hidradenitis is popularly called “ Bitch's udder" Due to nagging edema, the patient feels constant discomfort, painful sensations. Symptoms can be alleviated by simple disinfection. To do this, you need to wipe the affected area with medications.

To treat hidradenitis at home, disinfection is used:

1. Disinfection of aloe.

You need to take a few perennial aloe leaves, wash them in running water, dry, trim the thorns.

Cut along the leaf to release the juice, apply to the damaged area for 15-20 minutes. Repeat the procedure up to five times a day until the pus is completely pulled out of the wound and it is cleansed.

2. Alcohol.

Apply a solution of 2% boric alcohol or 10% camphor alcohol.

Use a cotton pad to thoroughly wipe the damaged area before and after manipulating the ulcers.

3. Vishnevsky ointment.

Make bandages using Vishnevsky ointment, securing the bandage with an adhesive plaster.

Change the dressing as often as possible: 3-5 times/day.

You should not open abscesses caused by hidradenitis yourself - you can cause an infection and provoke complications and the spread of infection. Continue changing bandages and disinfecting wounds to treat hidradenitis at home until the pus comes out spontaneously - then the abscess can be cleaned, following the rules of hygiene: do not touch the wound with dirty hands, wash your hands with soap before and after dressing, use sterile cotton wool and gauze.

4. Flatbread from the “bitch’s udder”.

2 chicken egg yolks;

Ch.l. honey;

Ch.l. flour (rye flour is better);

Ch.l. lard (melted lard).

Preparation: Knead the dough, add a little flour so that the cake does not flow. Apply to the sore spot and apply a bandage. If possible, do not move the compress from the cake. Keep for 12 hours, replace with fresh cake. To avoid infection, do not reuse the same cake.

5. Laundry soap.

Grate 50 gr. laundry soap;

50 gr. rye flour;

Art. l. Sahara;

Art. l. vegetable oil;

1 church candle (small), finely chopped.

Knead the dough, pour 1 tbsp. boiled water, cook for 2-3 minutes.

Mix the hot product with candle wax, apply it to multi-layer gauze so as not to leak, then apply a bandage to sore spot, tied with a bandage.

Change the compress every day until recovery.

6. Honey with propolis.

Propolis powder - 1 part;

Honey - 2 parts;

50 gr. rye flour.

Prepare a cake, apply it to the wound, secure with a bandage. Change 2 times/day.

7. Compress made from rye flour and cream.

50 gr. rye flour

Ch.l. Heavy cream, full-fat sour cream

Mix until thick, adding flour, make a flat cake and continue according to the scheme: attach, wrap, change 3 times a day.

Patients with hidradenitis should adhere to an enhanced diet to speedy recovery immunity and recovery.

Rose diseases are mainly found in the flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, selection of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry out and how to cope with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.

Why do roses get sick?

Anyone who loves roses should know their diseases, as well as the causes of their occurrence. Flowers can get sick various reasons, and basically all of them are associated with the carelessness of the gardener:

So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose flowerbed neighbors, and also not to forget about regular fertilizing and pruning.

If you had to deal with rose diseases, we have prepared their description and treatment below. Did you know? Roses are not only a garden crop; they are also found in wild conditions

, and some of them are capable of showing incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers that has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.

An infectious burn appears on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can degenerate and completely kill the plant. The reason for the development of this problem in the rose garden is the excessive accumulation of moisture under the cover during winter, excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil and weakening of the shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes rose blight can be transmitted from plant to plant through pruning shears.

The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly prevent it:

• remove leaves and shoots that are affected by infection;
• before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of iron sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
• It is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature no higher than +10°C;
• after removing the cover from the bushes, they can also be treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
• when pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
• It is important to remove vegetative shoots from affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden varnish.

How to remove rust from roses and why it appears

Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. It is capable of spraying its own spores, thereby affecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on rose bushes in the spring, since this disease causes last year's shoots to crack and pollen to fall out of them. Most susceptible to this disease are weak plants that lack nutrients and moisture. In some cases, weather conditions cause rust.

To prevent rust from appearing on roses and to help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:

1. Try to open rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so that they do not become steamy.
2. Affected and dead shoots must be cut out and burned.
3. To maintain the vital activity of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, adding 4 g per liter of water.
4. To avoid introducing the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution before planting. copper sulfate.
5. If you cannot get rid of rust on a plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flowerbed.

Also, do not forget that roses love to grow in a sunny place and need rich, fertile soil. The soil under the rose bushes should have good drainage, and the acidity should not go beyond 7.5. Strong bushes will be more resistant to rust.

Important! For good growth Roses require a lot of moisture, but they need to be watered rarely, but very generously.

Powdery mildew: removing powdery plaque from plant leaves and stems

This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60% and the temperature is between 16 and 18°C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions, it is difficult to avoid its occurrence. Often powdery mildew

forms mold on roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects the stems, leaves, buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant is sick, the more extensive the plaque spots become. Since powdery mildew often affects young shoots of plants, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom. To manage and prevent powdery mildew re-occurrence

, it is necessary to resort to the following measures:

1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots and burn the fallen leaves.

2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.

3. Spraying roses in the fall with a 3% solution of copper sulfate. 4. Spraying the bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 household or liquid soap

per 9 liters of rainwater, into which you need to pour another liter of water, in which 25-30 g of copper sulfate have previously been dissolved).

5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate plant growth, as well as increase their “immunity” to the disease.

6. Feed flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But under no circumstances should you use nitrogen, as it will only worsen the situation.

7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses particularly strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.

9. An infusion of mullein will also help fight mycelium; about 1 kg of it will be needed per 10 liters of water. Spraying also needs to be done once a week.

It is important to spray the bushes until traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.

Important! It is necessary to hill up roses not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, during the first thaw, the bushes will not begin to grow, but will continue to sleep until real warmth arrives.

Leaf spot and its elimination

You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:

• It is important to immediately tear off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
• every autumn the soil is dug up, during which it is important to completely turn the soil layers over to limit the access of air;
• usage special drug for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.

How to deal with gray mold: description of the disease

Gray rot is dangerous because even with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often affects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. Whites and whites are most susceptible to this disease. pink roses who receive insufficient nutrition and moisture.

The mycelium of gray mold is quite resistant to temperature changes, so it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring it continues to reproduce with the help of spores. This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, and it is not recommended to plant roses near them. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. Watering the roses better in the morning

or in the middle of the day, since after evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.

It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, you can use a horsetail decoction for spraying, and if the lesions have spread widely throughout the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationazole in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.

Bacterial canker on roses

Bacterial rose canker is one of the most common problems gardeners face.

This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which begin to rot over time. This leads to drying out of the bush, since the growths prevent moisture from reaching the shoots. The reason for the development of root cancer in rose bushes is damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers on clay soils with high content nitrogen.

If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to trim off all growths and dip the entire root system in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 2-3 minutes. After this, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.

However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant immediately.

Rose stem cancer needs immediate treatment, since its pathogen reacts steadily even to severe winter frosts and can rage especially intensely in the spring. On complete cure plants can take up to 3 years.

When fighting stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly inspect the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the buds swell, the affected bushes need to be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (to do this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).

For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:

· copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;

· copper oxychloride (per 10 l – 40 g of substance);

· Topsina-M (per 10 liters of water - 20 g).

A plant weakened by cancer will also require additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer it is useful to strengthen rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% Bordeaux acid.

Cytosporosis and its treatment

The symptom of this disease is a cardinal structural change bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first turns brown and then begins to die. Also, over time, many inflamed tubercles appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to become wet.

Treatment of cytosporosis involves treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is important to carry out this treatment even before the bushes bloom. All affected areas of the plant must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.

If you had to deal with rose diseases, we have prepared their description and treatment below. Sometimes small rose buds are not the result of lack of flower care or diseases, but a feature of the variety. Thus, in a variety of roses called “Si”, the size of a blooming bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.

Viral wilt

This disease is also quite common. It is characterized by painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time have a deformed appearance, the leaves have a thread-like shape.

Over time, the shoots and leaves become brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes, and by the end of summer such a bush usually dries out. It is almost impossible to combat viral wilt.

It is important to trim and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it would be correct to dig it up and burn it completely. It is worth understanding that viral wilt can be transmitted from bush to bush through pruning shears, which are important to disinfect when working in the rose garden.

Disease Prevention It is important to carry out preventive actions to prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes annually.

In particular, treating roses against fungus using Bordeaux mixture should be carried out both in the fall, before protecting the bushes from frost, and in the spring, even before they begin to grow. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare clean, nutritious soil that is free of fungi and other pathogens.

Thank you for your opinion!

Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

You can recommend this article to your friends!

98 You can recommend this article to your friends!
once already

helped
I first got Brugmansia many years ago. Having seen in Poland a bag of seeds of an unusual plant with huge beautiful flowers, it was impossible to resist!

Since then I have been growing Brugmansias and have fallen in love with this beautiful flowering plant. I currently have Brugmansias with white, pink and yellow flowers (in my photo it is a three year old plant).

I will share with the readers of the site my successful experience of growing Brugmansias, which bloom long and abundantly.

During the warm season, Brugmansias live in our garden, which is located in the Dnepropetrovsk region.
While Brugmansias are still small, at first everything is simple with such plants. Planting Brugmansia seedlings or cuttings in a pot suitable size
When grown Brugmansias become cramped in pots, then they bloom worse. This is a signal to transplant the plant into a larger container.

When we tried to plant Brugmansias directly in open ground for the summer, it was difficult to dig them up later. Therefore, we plant an adult plant in a bucket, in which we first make drainage holes at the bottom and on the sides to drain excess water.
When the weather warms up, we place a bucket of Brugmansia in the area where the plant is actively developing. good conditions. Soon a gorgeous, abundantly flowering bush will grow!

Wintering Brugmansia indoors

The heat-loving Brugmansia cannot overwinter in my garden, so we bring our plants indoors for the winter.

In the fall, before the cold weather, we dig up Brugmansia from open ground together in a container. Since the roots of the plant that have grown over the summer penetrate outward through the drainage holes, you have to cut off the long roots along the bucket with a shovel.

After digging up a large Brugmansia bush from the garden, we trim it well and bring it into the house.
When trimming the Brugmansia crown for the winter, it is necessary to leave all the forks on the branches. After all, a plant will not bloom until it has forks!
I noticed that on my Brugmansias flowers form both on branches with asymmetrical leaves and on forks with symmetrical leaves.

If Brugmansia is left indoors in winter and is practically not watered, it will shed its leaves. If you water it even a little, the plant will remain green.

Unfortunately, Brugmansia is very fond of whitefly, and getting rid of this pest is not easy. Therefore, before bringing a whitefly-infected plant indoors, you have to remove all leaves from Brugmansia. But, according to my observations, this does not harm the plant - the bush then quickly grows new leaves.

If gardeners do not have the opportunity, then they can put the plants in the basement or overwinter.

In February, I begin to regularly water my Brugmansias, placing the plants in a bright, warm place. Brugmansia bushes that have emerged from dormancy begin to move into new growth, feeling the approaching spring.

With this care, Brugmansias bloom already at the beginning of summer and delight us with their wonderful flowers for a long time.

I wish flower growers good luck!

Elena Sharko (Krivoy Rog, Ukraine)

On the website website

Weekly Free Site Digest website

Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, an excellent selection of relevant materials about flowers and gardens, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and receive!