Preparations for climbing mountains. Human acclimatization in mountainous areas
How I spent summer…
Kondraty Bulavin, climber,
To make your climb or mountain hike easier and to get the most out of it, your body will need training and support. We can and should start working on the first point in advance. The best training for mountain hiking and mountaineering is long-distance running (this topic deserves special attention).
But if everything is more or less clear with training, then what support is there? This is what we can do to help our body directly in the mountains - on the route. Support can be following a certain nutrition program (as for marathon runners, for example), taking certain medications, following various regimes, etc. The need for this is associated with the great physical and psychological stress that a climber/tourist experiences in the highlands. Long treks from camp to camp (not to mention the actual assault on the summit), which sometimes take many hours in a row, you have to walk up a steep mountain, over rocks, and then across a glacier in knee-deep snow. In addition, you often have to carry a backpack weighing 20-30 kilograms. And so every day is a great test of strength!
Similar loads on the plain can throw even a well-trained person out of balance. In the highlands, there is a high probability that a climber, and especially a beginner, will not calculate his strength and will devastate the body in the very first days, and it is much more difficult to restore strength at altitude. Consider the lack of oxygen and the rapidly changing weather - from the scorching sun - when you strip down to a T-shirt, to the risk of frostbitten fingers and toes - when clouds appear, wind or the sun sets. Also, don’t forget increased solar radiation - when unprotected skin can get burned in just half an hour (don’t forget to take sunscreen with protection 50+), and constantly experiencing stress from an aggressive environment.
How I spent summer…
If we take all this into account, then the recommendations that sports physiologists give to climbers will not seem unnecessary. And they recommend drinking at least 4 liters of water per day at an altitude of 3500 meters, not counting soups and other liquid foods. Otherwise, dehydration will accelerate and intensify the symptoms of mountain sickness. It is convenient to carry water with you in a drinking system during transitions, which will allow you not to stop, but to drink on the go through a special tube. To keep the water cool (and above 3500 meters, as a rule, it is already quite cold), use a cover that retains heat
and the same cover for the hose so that the water in it does not freeze.
If the trek lasts more than 4-5 hours, then the water in the drinking bowl will either run out or cool down, and drinking cold water is not always pleasant (almost never in the mountains). In such a case, you need to stock up on a lightweight thermos of 1-1.5 liters, where you can brew compote (raisins, sugar and boiling water) or something else sweet before leaving. It is advisable to drink little and often. To maintain strength during long hours of movement, the body needs to replenish its energy supply. In addition to sweet compote in a thermos, it is very useful to have chocolate bars with you - Snickers, Mars, as well as candies, dried fruits and nuts, which are high in carbohydrates and calories, and therefore energy. It is advisable to eat a few nuts or candy at each stop.
In the evening at camp, you can drink an isotonic solution to replenish the loss of salts in the body and speed up recovery after exercise. To obtain such a solution we need Regidron powder and warm water. Doesn't taste great, but very healthy! Rehydron can be replaced with more modern and tasty drugs, like Zero effervescent tablets.
During movement, along with sweat, the climber loses a lot of fluid, with which minerals and vitamins leave the body. This is also facilitated by glacial water, which is almost distilled and perfectly washes away beneficial substances from the body. Part of the losses is compensated by an isotonic drink, but in order to compensate for the losses as much as possible and make it easier for the body to endure the test of altitude and physical activity, you can take a course of regular multivitamins (for example, Complivit, Duovit, Multi-Tabs) and vitamin C (1-2 times a day, 1 gram. ). It is better to start taking vitamins a couple of weeks before going to the mountains.
The most important condition for good health on a mountain hike (and not only) is good, sound sleep. If you don't sleep one night, your poor health the next day can begin to grow like a snowball - literally with every step. Sleep is also extremely important for good acclimatization. But in the mountains, sometimes it can be difficult to fall asleep. Anything can disturb you - the flapping of a tent in the wind, a friend's snoring, a headache, anxiety before climbing, etc. In such a situation, someone advises taking sleeping pills - for example, Donormil or Sonnat. These drugs actually promote sound, sound sleep, but you definitely need to test them on yourself BEFORE going to the mountains. You shouldn't drink them for the first time in the mountains!
If a headache prevents you from falling asleep, you don’t have to endure it! Take a pill for pain, and in half an hour you will be sound asleep - this is more important than waiting until your “head acclimatizes” and the pain goes away on its own! If anxiety is keeping you from falling asleep, take a couple of valerian tablets, an old and proven natural remedy.
Quite a lot of material has been written on the topic of pharmacological support for the body during mountaineering. We have touched only on the simple, most necessary and guaranteed harmless methods of support. In other articles on other resources you will find numerous tips, following which you will have to buy half a pharmacy and drink all these drugs by the handful every day. Personally, I am convinced that taking a large number of maintenance medications should not be an end in itself. It is much more important to pay due attention to physical training before the hike, and then you will most likely not need any pills!
Kondraty Bulavin, climber,
friend of the City Escape Hiking and Adventure Club
Features of traveling in high mountain areas
The first sensation of a person who has risen to a great height is a headache. There are also frequent cases of loss of sleep, appetite, stomach upset, vomiting, feeling of weakness, etc. This is due to the fact that due to low oxygen levels at altitude, swelling of the brain occurs, which in turn causes an increase in intracranial pressure. The fluid accumulated in the intercellular space puts pressure on the brain, causing the functioning of all other organs to deteriorate. It is very important to gain altitude gradually so that the body has time to acclimatize. Otherwise, as a result, the person will begin to lose balance, stop thinking soberly and appear drunk. If such symptoms appear, it is necessary to descend approximately 100 meters down as soon as possible, otherwise a person may die within 2-4 days.
Mountain sickness also occurs due to pulmonary edema. Due to low oxygen levels in the blood and physical activity, pressure increases in the blood vessels of the lungs. Blood pressure rises, which leads to blood vessels starting to leak.
This article describes the main aspects of traveling in high mountainous regions for those participants who travel with our club to the mountainous regions of Nepal, Tibet, Northern India, Altai, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Africa, etc. (altitude 3000-6000 meters above sea level) . This article can be called a brief educational program for all lovers of mountain hiking.
What causes poor health in high mountain areas?
Poor health at high altitude is due to several reasons. At low altitudes, atmospheric pressure is usually 1 atm. As altitude increases, pressure begins to decrease. At low atmospheric pressure, a person begins to feel a lack of oxygen, this is due to the fact that the distance between O 2 molecules increases significantly, and oxygen simply becomes more difficult to extract from the air. At high altitudes, the concentration of O 2 in the air remains the same as at sea level, but due to the lower pressure, oxygen takes up a larger volume and it is much more difficult for a person to get all the oxygen he needs. A person begins to breathe more often, but still there comes a moment when the lack of oxygen will be very noticeable. The altitude at which oxygen saturation decreases is different for each person (approximately 1800 meters above sea level). Oxygen starvation is stress for the body, and it is necessary for the body to get used to this mode of operation. That is why a prerequisite for staying in the highlands is acclimatization, which takes some time.
What is altitude sickness? What are the signs of the beginning of acclimatization of the body in the highlands?
Altitude sickness- this is a deterioration in well-being associated with a lack of oxygen in the human body, physical activity, dehydration, physical fatigue and other factors. Mountain sickness is a sudden and dangerous condition for human health; it leads to swelling of the lungs and brain. That is why it is very important to follow the rules of acclimatization. Also, you should not go to high mountain areas if you have contraindications to staying at high altitudes.
If, while in a high-mountainous area, you begin to feel lethargic, shortness of breath appears, and you begin to lag behind the rest of the group, then most likely you have developed swelling. A dry cough gradually begins to appear, which eventually becomes wet. To avoid these unpleasant moments, it is necessary for the body to undergo gradual acclimatization.
Acclimatization rules
For the acclimatization process to occur correctly it is necessary:
1) drink more fluids,
2) don't rush,
3) exclude alcohol, fatty foods and heavy physical activity during ascent
First point says that you need to drink as much clean drinking water as possible (at least 4 liters per day). This is due to the fact that at high altitude the body loses a large amount of water, which is why it is necessary to restore the balance of water in the body. You need to drink hot water with lemon, hibiscus, ginger, rose hips or other tonic and sour foods.
Second point indicates that you not only need to gradually gain altitude, but you also need to walk slowly, and in no case should you fuss. However, it is worth noting that, for example, when hiking in the highlands, physical exercise makes you sweat a lot, which in turn helps lower blood pressure.
Third point suggests that for good acclimatization in the highlands you need to adhere to prohibition. You should not drink black tea, smoke or eat fatty heavy foods.
Can medications be used to speed up the acclimatization process?
In order for acclimatization to take place correctly, you do not need to take any medications, you just need time. Over time, the body will get used to low atmospheric pressure and lack of oxygen. It is optimal if you gain altitude gradually: about 300-400 meters per day, rest should be arranged for every 3-4 days of ascent. If during the climb your head starts to hurt, then you should not torment your body and continue climbing. In this case, you just need to rest.
If you want to take any medicine, you can pay attention to homeopathy and the drug “Diamox”, which helps stimulate the brain, kidneys and speeds up breathing. Taking this drug should be started one day before the ascent and finished one day after the descent. The recommended daily dose is 500 mg, the drug should be taken twice a day.
To get rid of a headache you can take paracetamol, ibuprofen, spazgan. But the most important thing is not to rush while climbing. Medications can be taken to treat symptoms, but in no case to speed up the acclimatization process!!!
Contraindications for staying in high mountain areas
There is a whole list of medical contraindications for staying at high altitudes. Firstly, it is worth saying that a person can go to the mountains if he does not have any serious illnesses. People with chronic low blood pressure and problems with the cardiovascular system are strictly contraindicated from staying at an altitude of more than 3-3.5 thousand meters. Staying at high altitudes can cause negative consequences for teenagers and pregnant women. Most often, the physical fitness and age of the participants in the climb do not affect the acclimatization process.
How to make the acclimatization process easier?
1) Drink a hot drink from a thermos (not coffee or black tea) or plain acidified drinking water in small sips. A hot drink with honey, lemon and ginger is a great way to help with the acclimatization process.
2) Each individual first aid kit should contain moisturizing drops for the nose and eyes, hygienic lipstick with SPF factor and hand cream. These items will help you more easily cope with the dry air in the highlands.
3) While in the mountains, regularly take a complex of vitamins, and in the first 3-4 days in the mountains, the dosage of vitamins can be doubled. You can also take Microhydrin as a dietary supplement, which alleviates the symptoms of acclimatization.
4) Often during acclimatization, appetite decreases. But still, when going to the highlands, you need to take with you dried fruits, nuts, dark chocolate, cheese, lard and other high-calorie foods that will help you regain strength.
5) Don't forget to breathe deeply!
prepared the material
The material was found and prepared for publication by Grigory Luchansky
Source: G. Rung. On the prevention of mountain sickness during high-altitude ascents.Defeated peaks. 1970-1971. Mysl, Moscow, 1972Not the least important factor in the prevention of altitude sickness is the food factor. Much attention was paid to him during our expeditions.
Many books have been written about nutrition during mountain hikes. Therefore, I would like to say only about the most important features of nutrition on our expeditions.
Strenuous work at altitude leads to greater consumption of the body's carbohydrate reserves, despite the increased digestibility of carbohydrates. Therefore, climbing participants received increased doses of glucose daily (up to 200-250 g). Each athlete had a “pocket” diet, i.e. sour and mint candies, sugar, chocolate, raisins, dried plums, which they ate during approaches and ascents hourly and in small doses.
To improve carbohydrate metabolism, it is enough to take a piece of sugar, and the amount of sugar in the blood immediately reflexively increases. Irritation of the nerve endings of the stomach occurs, in response to which the breakdown of glycogen begins in the liver, and the product of its breakdown, glucose, passes through the blood to the organs.
On our expedition, about 1/2 of the food ration was allocated to carbohydrates, and the ratio of carbohydrates, proteins and fats was approximately 2:1:1, in contrast to the ration often recommended at altitude, 10:2:1 (A. S. Shatalina , V.S. Asatiani) or 4:1:0.7 (N.N. Yakovlev).
It should be noted that any increase in the amount of carbohydrates in food should be accompanied by increased doses of vitamin B 1, which helps tissues use sugar better. Our climbers took vitamin B 1 in tablets at 10 mg per day.
It is known that as a result of oxygen starvation, protein oxidation decreases somewhat. Therefore, we (on the recommendation of V.S. Asatiani) used amino acids (glutamic acid, methionine) to accelerate recovery processes from an altitude of 4500 m.
Glutamic acid stimulates oxidative processes and plays an important role in restoring muscle performance. In case of oxygen deficiency, glutamic acid normalizes the metabolism of brain tissue by binding ammonia. Climbers used it at the rate of 1g x 3 - 4 times a day (in the form of tablets).
Methionine ensures normal liver function (especially under conditions of increased load on it) and, most importantly, helps an intensively working body in conditions of oxygen starvation to replenish energy reserves from fats. Most authors note that in high altitude conditions, fats in any form are consumed reluctantly or even often cause disgust.
As a result of taking methionine in doses of 0.5-1.0 x 3-4 times a day from an altitude of 4500-5000 m and good acclimatization, combined with excellent physical fitness, we did not observe an aversion to fats in any of the participants. Most athletes ate with great appetite even such a difficult-to-digest product as salted lard (with onions and garlic).
The use of vitamin B 15 (pangamic acid) enhances the oxidation of fats in the body and, most importantly, increases the percentage of oxygen used by the body and increases its resistance to hypoxia. Climbers used it (as recommended by N. N. Yakovlev) a week before going to the mountains and directly in the mountains, 150 mg (1 tablet x 3 times), and from an altitude of 5000 m this dose doubled (2 tablets 3 times) .
Also, for better absorption of fats, athletes took vitamin C. In addition, vitamin C enhances oxidative processes in the body, actively participating in carbohydrate metabolism, and promotes energy production. Mountain climbers are recommended to take up to 500 mg (i.e. ten times the norm) of vitamin C per day. We tried to adhere to this norm at all stages of the expedition.
At the approaches and in the base camps, whenever possible, they tried to introduce the vitamin norm through fruits and vegetables. During the ascents, in addition to vitamin C in the pills, climbers consumed specially candied lemon slices and sour apples.
As you know, in the mountains the need for other vitamins increases significantly.
Vitamins contained in food, even in small quantities, serve as regulators of metabolic processes, since from them highly active biological substances are formed in the body - enzymes, with the participation of which complex chemical transformations of carbohydrates, fats and proteins are carried out. For example, vitamins B 1, B 2, C, PP, pantothenic acid, vitamin E serve for the formation of oxidative enzymes.
Vitamin PP (nicotinamide, or nicotinic acid) facilitates the occurrence of oxidative processes when the body’s oxygen supply is insufficient. It should be taken in increased doses at high altitudes for another reason: consuming large quantities of vitamin B 1 (for the absorption of glucose) requires an increase in vitamin PP. We used the latter from an altitude of 5000 m (0.1X3 times a day).
Vitamin E promotes better oxygenation of tissues during increased long-term stress in high altitude conditions and enhances oxygen metabolism. Vitamin E is also associated with the regulation of carbohydrate-phosphorus metabolism in muscles. With its deficiency, muscle weakness and even muscle dystrophy develop. Alcohol solutions are perceived better than oil solutions. True, from an altitude of 5000 m we used oil solutions (due to the lack of alcohol solutions) 1 tsp each. X 1–2 times a day (10 mg).
Vitamin B2, very necessary in carbohydrate, protein and fat metabolism, was used in tablets at 25 mg per day on approaches and 35 mg at an altitude of 5000 m.
Vitamin A, like previous vitamins, contributes to normal metabolism and normal vision, which is under heavy strain in the mountains; helps protect the skin from harmful effects, especially ultraviolet irradiation, sunburn and frostbite. We used it during climbing in 5 mg tablets (i.e. three times the dose).
Vitamin P, together with ascorbic acid, participates in redox processes; it reduces the permeability and fragility of capillaries. Climbers took it from an altitude of 5000 m, 0.5 per day.
Vitamin D regulates the exchange of phosphorus and calcium in the body and is especially necessary during heavy physical activity. Our athletes received vitamin D periodically under very significant loads, 2 mg per day (as recommended by Professor A. S. Shatalina) in combination with calcium gluconate (0.5 per day).
For most climbers who took this complex of vitamins, especially in the first days of staying at altitude, the number of red blood cells and hemoglobin increases and, consequently, the oxygen capacity of the blood increases. This means that their acclimatization processes proceed more intensively, as a result they better tolerate being in these unusual conditions and physical activity at altitude.
For the same purpose, to facilitate and accelerate acclimatization, 5-7 days before leaving for the mountains, we took hemostimulin (0.4X3 times) with acidinpepsin (to improve the absorption of the drug) and hematogen (in usual dosages).
When the first signs of mountain sickness appeared and in order to prevent it, we used a number of other therapeutic agents.
As mentioned above, as a result of hyperventilation (increased breathing), a lot of carbon dioxide is lost, the body becomes alkalized (gas alkalosis), which is accompanied by nausea, even vomiting. Therefore, to prevent this condition, we used the well-known recipe of N. N. Sirotinin (caffeine - 0.1 g, luminal - 0.05, ascorbic acid - 0.5, citric acid - 0.5, glucose - 50 g). For nausea, we also took aeron tablets and neuroplegics (1-2 tablets each of pipolfen, suprastin, diphenhydramine or plemogasin, preferably when the group is already on vacation), which have a strong antihistamine effect, enhancing the effect of hypnotics and analgesics that prevent vomiting.
To normalize the processes of inhibition and excitation, on the recommendation of N. N. Sirotinin, A. A. Zhukov, N. P. Grigoriev, G. V. Peshkovsky, A. A. Khachaturyan, who received a significant reduction in the percentage of mountain sickness when taking luminal in combination with caffeine, all climbers on our expedition above 4500 m necessarily used the latter drug.
To improve sleep, sleeping pills (Luminal, Barbamil) were prescribed. It was noticed that sleep was much better when the feet did not freeze. That's why we paid attention to athletes' shoes.
As is known, mountain sickness manifests itself more in people who are not psychologically prepared to overcome the factors of high altitude (despite the ongoing psychoprophylaxis). Having some experience as an anesthesiologist and knowing the effect of minor tranquilizers, which have a calming effect on the central nervous system, eliminating feelings of anxiety, fear and tension, the author of the article used trioxazine on himself while climbing the peak of V.I. Lenin above 5000 m. At the same time, my health was significantly better than that of those who did not take tranquilizers. Subsequently, this same effect was confirmed by other climbers who had previously participated in high-altitude expeditions, in particular such experienced high-altitude climbers as B. Gavrilov, who twice completed the traverse of Pobeda Peak, Honorary Master of Sports A. Ryabukhin, Master of Sports V. Ryazanov, S. Sorokin, P. Greulich, G. Rozhalskaya and other climbers of our group (who, seeing the good effect of the drugs, voluntarily began to take tranquilizers).
In the literature, we did not find any evidence of experience in using these drugs for the prevention and treatment of mountain sickness. The use of these drugs requires further study. The experience of Chelyabinsk high-altitude expeditions, in which in the initial period of acclimatization at altitudes above 5000 m, especially for novice high-altitude climbers, tranquilizers (trioxazin, andaxin or meprobamate individually - 1-2 tablets per night) were used in combination with others that promote rapid adaptation to high altitudes, suggests that the use of these drugs is advisable. But you need to remember that using them in large doses can cause an undesirable effect (possibly a reverse effect in conditions of oxygen starvation, development of addiction and even addiction to drugs, unwanted relaxation of muscles along the route, etc.). When taking tranquilizers at night, which enhance the effect of sleeping pills, rest becomes more effective and people are more productive.
As a result of the listed preventive measures, during the acclimatization period at an altitude of 4500 m, 7 out of 70 people (in different years) noted slight irritability, apathy, and adynamia. According to N. N. Sirotinin, headaches appear when climbing to heights of more than 5000 m in 75% of all climbers to Elbrus. In our expeditions, 41.5% (or 17 out of 41) of the athletes suffered from headaches occasionally (!) in the first days of acclimatization at altitudes above 5000 m. Moreover, 14 of them (i.e. 82%) rose above 5000 m for the first time. In addition to headaches, some of them felt weak, tired, and unwell. All these symptoms quickly disappeared as a result of the above preventive and therapeutic measures.
During long ascents and traverses at altitudes, especially above 7000 m, when there is oxygen starvation, cold, physical and neuropsychic stress, when it is not possible to fully provide people with proteins, vitamins, and medications, as is known, rapid and serious exhaustion of the body occurs , nutritional dystrophy of tissues and organs. As noted by Milledge (1962), an altitude of 5490 m is the maximum altitude to which a person can adapt without harm to health. With further prolonged stay and rise above this altitude, a process of deterioration begins in the body, when the deterioration of the general condition and weakening of the body begin to take precedence over adaptive physiological reactions.
1. 30-60 days before the trip, run/walk at least 10 km per day. We train mainly the legs and lungs.
2. Take multivitamins. (see below)
3. If there are problems with blood vessels and immunity, then we take special. medications (see below).
4. If you are poorly prepared, in agreement with your doctor, 15 days before the start of the trip we begin taking capillary protectors and drugs that increase blood hemoglobin (see below).
As you know, the higher the altitude above sea level, the less oxygen in the air. Climbing too quickly can cause altitude sickness, which in turn can be fatal. Crossing several passes on the route requires acclimatization. At some points along the route, the oxygen content is 50% of the oxygen content in the air we are used to. The body needs many days to adapt to such conditions. For safety reasons, acclimatization is absolutely necessary. Our tours are designed in such a way as to reduce the risk of altitude sickness to a minimum. The climb is always smooth. However, we encourage you to check out the good article on altitude sickness posted HERE. Pay attention to preparing for trekking and have a special “high-altitude first aid kit” with you.
Prevention of mountain sickness:
3 months before the ascent, to prepare the heart, blood vessels and respiratory system, it is recommended to start jogging at least 3 times a week, and no less than 4 km. You can practice cycling. At the same time, the recommended duration of training is at least 60 minutes a day.
2 months before the ascent, you can start taking medications that increase blood hemoglobin, adaptogens and capillary protectors (capillary tablets, 3-4 pieces on an empty stomach, chew).
For those who are weather-sensitive, prone to headaches, and people with osteochondrosis of the cervical spine, in consultation with the doctor a month before the ascent, take Cavinton or Ginko Biloba to improve cerebral circulation.
Hypoxen is an antihypoxic and antioxidant drug (accelerates acclimatization) - 7 days before the start.
The Chinese herbal medicine to speed up acclimatization and prevent mountain sickness “hong jing tian” can only be bought in China.
Take a multivitamin with a mandatory content of all microelements a month before climbing the mountains. Duovit or similar.
Cavinton, “... improves brain metabolism, increasing the consumption of glucose and oxygen by brain tissue”;
Hypoxen, “...ensures a decrease in oxygen consumption during significant physical exertion, improves tissue respiration,” reduces mental and physical fatigue;
Mildronate, “... restores the balance between the supply and need of cells for oxygen, eliminates the accumulation of toxic metabolic products in cells, and has a tonic effect”;
Aescusian, “...has a venotonic effect, reduces feelings of fatigue, itching, heaviness, and pain in the legs.”
Phenotropil has a moderate stimulating effect on motor reactions and increases physical performance.
The moderate psychostimulating effect of the drug is combined with anxiolytic activity. Phenotropil improves mood, has an analgesic effect, increasing the threshold of pain sensitivity, has an adaptogenic effect, increasing the body's resistance to stress under conditions of increased mental and physical stress, fatigue, hypokinesia and immobilization, and low temperatures.
Recommended set of “high altitude first aid kit” for 5000 meters and above:
acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin, thrombo ACC) to thin the blood and improve oxygen transport. For daily use!!!
Vitamin C. It is better to take a soluble form of 500 or 1000 mg. For daily use.
Asparkam or Panangin. For daily use.
Riboxin. For daily use.
Potassium orotate. For daily use.
Diacarb. Recommended for use when spending the night at altitudes above 4000m.
Dexamethasone.
Ibuprofen or Solpadeine. It relieves headaches well during the initial symptoms of mountain sickness.
Cerucal. Antiemetic.
Anti-cold medications, immunomodulators (Ocillococcinum, Anaferon) should be taken immediately in case of hypothermia, chills, runny nose, or if any adenoviral infections occur in the group.
Sputum thinners (for example, ACC, which should be taken for any form of cough, for early prevention of pulmonary edema).
Three golden rules for preventing altitude sickness:
1. Never climb with symptoms of altitude sickness.
2. If the symptoms of mountain sickness intensify, then you definitely need to descend.
3. If a climber feels unwell at altitude, then in the absence of obvious signs of other diseases, it is necessary to assume that he has acute mountain sickness and carry out appropriate treatment.
There are a number of rules for gaining altitude. If you follow these rules, climbing to a height is not very painful.
They are taken into account in my programs.
Very important information for beginners at altitude
Night at altitude:
When mountain sickness occurs, a person is most vulnerable at night. At night, he relaxes, mobilization on the part of the nervous system disappears, and the tone that is maintained through volitional efforts disappears. At the same time, self-monitoring of the participant’s condition and monitoring of his condition by teammates ceases.
If a positive feedback (vicious circle) occurs, for example, of this nature - the heart weakens because it lacks oxygen, it pumps blood weaker and weaker, and from this the oxygen deficiency increases even more. So, if such a vicious circle occurs, a person can degrade overnight to complete morning incapacity or death.
At the same time, a successful overnight stay at altitude allows you to adapt to this altitude to the greatest extent.
A very good indicator is heart rate. The evening pulse can be quite significant and exceed 100 beats per minute in mild forms of mountain sickness. But the morning heart rate should drop to 80-90 beats per minute. If the morning pulse exceeds 105 beats per minute, this means that the person has not mastered the altitude overnight and must be escorted down. Further ascent from the overnight stay upwards at such a morning pulse is very likely to lead to severe mountain sickness and the group will only waste time descending the victim from an even higher altitude.
In July 2014, we measured blood pressure and pulse in 5 people from our group.
The analysis of the results is not yet ready for publication.
But the fact that my heart rate was always in the range of 50-70 beats per minute is the best confirmation of the benefits of regular fasting.
It is also necessary to properly prepare for bed. Sleep must be sound.
First of all, you can't tolerate a headache. It is especially typical when the head hurts in the evening after completing the daily plan. This is explained by the fact that muscle work during physical activity stimulates intense work of the lungs and heart. Since a person has two circles of blood circulation, blood is automatically pumped through the brain by the same contractions of the heart. And the brain does not experience oxygen starvation. And in the evening, with little physical activity, oxygen starvation of the brain develops.
So, it has been noticed that headaches destabilize the body. If you tolerate it, it will only intensify, and your overall health will continue to deteriorate. Therefore, if you have a headache, you need to take pills immediately. This is Citramon 500 or even 1000 mg. The soluble drug Solpadeine has an even stronger effect, which not only relieves headaches, but also alleviates the general state of inflammation or, as it were, “restlessness” in the body. If you have a fever, it will also relieve this ailment.
It is in this normalized state that you should approach sleep. Naturally, you should not get drunk on coffee. Please ensure that the room is well ventilated so that you do not burn out oxygen at night, exacerbating oxygen starvation.
Now the next typical phenomenon. You can't sleep. This is very bad. Try to relax while listening to music. If you have already lost an hour of sleep, then you need to use the tablets immediately. You can use Diphenhydramine. It not only has the effect of a sleeping pill, but is an antihistamine and relieves inflammation in the body. Sometimes you have to take two tablets.
The drugs Donormil or Sonat are affordable and almost safe. If you take them in the indicated doses, there will be no problems. Many of my friends have had positive experiences with these drugs on Everest, up to 8300. Wonderful sleep with easy awakening and a feeling of rest. During sound sleep, the brain consumes significantly less oxygen, restores the activity of centers and accumulates energy. These processes occur only exclusively in sleep. In short, sleep is the best prevention of cerebral edema. I will repeat once again, be sure to try each of these drugs before the mountains. Like any medicine, they can cause allergies, rare side effects and other possible troubles. Make sure they are harmless, adapt your body to each of them, select individual doses, include them in the training process and see the effect. This creative approach will pay off, believe me. This is a different level of life, if you want, this is another chance at life.
A typical mistake is to suffer from insomnia. Some people say that sleeping pills will make them groggy in the morning. As a result, they do not get enough sleep, and this makes them even more lethargic than from sleeping pills. But the worst thing is that they do not spend the night effectively in terms of long-term altitude adaptation (small gamma angle). A sleepless night is very dangerous for the development of altitude sickness.
If you have any questions, write.
Good luck everyone,
Alexei
Vitamins and medications
Vitamins play an important role in human nutrition. They participate in metabolism, stimulate oxidative reactions, increase the endurance and resistance of mountain hikers to hypoxia, and improve the supply of oxygen to tissues.
On all trips where the amount of vegetables and fruits on the menu is limited, there is a lack of vitamins and some other substances. Fortunately, the amount of vitamins a person needs is small; their deficiency can be easily compensated by taking artificial vitamin preparations.
On difficult hikes, especially in the mountains, the need for vitamins increases, so without artificial vitamins the BDP decreases. A lack of vitamins in food may not have a noticeable effect on performance for a long time, but it can suddenly affect it under high loads or severe fatigue.
The most important vitamins include vitamin C (ascorbic acid), B complex vitamins and vitamins PP (nicotinamide) and P (aronia extract) included in multivitamin preparations (undevit, aerovit, kvadevit, etc.). No less important is vitamin B]5 (pangamic acid), which is not included in conventional multivitamin preparations.
Other medications that help athletes and tourists adapt and tolerate stress include:
restorative- calcium gluconate;
metabolic stimulants- potassium orotate, which stimulates the supply of oxygen to the heart muscle; methionine, which facilitates the absorption of fats; glutamic acid, which binds ammonia, is a waste product of the brain;
energy preparations- glutamic acid and calcium glycerophosphate;
hematopoietic stimulants(type hematogen), increasing the content of hemoglobin in the blood, which facilitates altitude adaptation;
adaptogens- substances that increase the body’s resistance in extreme conditions - eleutherococcus, dibazol, etc.
The composition and dosage of the vitamin diet depends on the complexity of the route, climatic conditions, and in the mountains, on the altitude to which tourists climb.
On simple hikes (on the plains, at altitudes up to 3.5 thousand meters in the Caucasus and up to 4 thousand meters in Central Asia), they usually take multivitamins (undevit, aerovit, etc.) 2-3 tablets (dragées) and vitamin C 0.5 g per day.
Before difficult hikes, as well as before competitions in many sports, pre-vitaminization of athletes is practiced.
The supply of vitamins created in this way in the body helps to endure high loads and facilitates adaptation to new conditions at the beginning of the hike. During this period, mountain tourists, with the help of special medications, manage to slightly change the composition of the blood so that the restructuring of the body necessary for high-altitude acclimatization partially takes place before leaving for the mountains.
For the purpose of fortification, here they take the same vitamins in the same dosage as in simple hikes (see above), and additionally 3-4 tablets of vitamin B 15, 3-4 tablets of calcium gluconate, and before mountain hikes - hematogen (in according to package directions or doctor's recommendations). Many tourists take adaptogenic drugs a month before the trip - eleutherococcus, lemongrass, etc.
On short but difficult mountain hikes in the off-season (climbing Elbrus, Kazbek, etc.), tourists are in a state of chronic mountain sickness throughout the entire trip. To successfully fight it and endure intense physical activity, they take 6 Aerovit or Quadevit tablets, 1.5-2 g of vitamin C, vitamin B 15, 2 tablets 4 times a day, continue to take calcium gluconate - 6 tablets a day , methionine and glutamic acid - 2-4 tablets per day (depending on the condition of the individual tourist). Some tourists continue to take eleutherococcus and hematogen until they rise to an altitude of 4000 meters.
Not all tourist groups use the entire specified complex of drugs, however, such shock vitamin rations have been repeatedly used by high-altitude climbers as prescribed by the doctors accompanying the group (G. Rung, N. Zavgarova) and have proven themselves to be highly effective.
On long mountain routes, where acclimatization takes place in a gentle manner, there is no need to take hematogen and potassium orotate, especially since potassium orotate, when taken regularly, delays the body’s adaptation. Methionine should accompany fatty foods, and glutamic acid is used mainly to “cleanse the brain” if causeless irritation occurs among the participants in the hike. To these are added the obligatory aerovit or kvadevit - 4-5 tablets each, B]5 - up to 0.5 g (8 tablets) and vitamin C - 1-1.5 g per day.
For all types of tourism on the main part of the route, the dosage of vitamins can be: multivitamins - up to 4 tablets, B]5 - 4-6 tablets and vitamin C - up to 1 g. Other drugs are taken only in the mountains as needed. On assault days and at altitudes above 5500 meters, it is advisable to increase the dosage to acclimatization standards, adding 2-4 tablets of methionine and glutamic acid, and for hard work at altitudes above 5500 meters - to the standards typical for hiking in the off-season (see above) .