Plants and animals of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus: description with photos and videos of the nature of the Caucasus. Medical encyclopedia - Black Sea coast of the Caucasus

Lazarevsky district is the longest - 109 kilometers along the Black Sea coast from Mamaika to the river. Shepsi. On its territory there are resort villages - Dagomys, Uchdere, Loo, Golovinka, Chemitokvadzhe, Lazarevskoye, Ashe, Makopse, Magri, Vardane. The settlement was founded as a Russian military outpost in 1839 and named after Admiral Lazarev.

For two centuries, Russia waged long wars with Turkey for access to the Black Sea. In the 40s of the 19th century, Lazarev organized the continuous protection of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus from attempts by British and Turkish ships to influence the situation in this area. He assigned a certain sector to each of the two detachments of the squadron and entrusted them with cruising duty. To build coastal fortifications, Lazarev proposed landing troops from ships of the Black Sea Fleet at the work site. Under his leadership, the headquarters of the Black Sea Fleet developed a manual that guided Russian sailors during landings. It provided for the organization of landing forces, methods of landing and support on the shore with naval artillery, control of them and interaction with ground forces. One of these landings was landed at the mouth of the Subashi and Shipauchi rivers. A fortification at the landing site was founded in 1839. And in 1869, a settlement arose on the site of the fortification, which the residents named Lazarevskoye in honor of the admiral, who showed courage and heroism in defending the Caucasus. Later, a monument was erected in the village. At the foot of the monument, on an inclined slab in a laurel wreath, there is a black cast-iron anchor intertwined with a chain.

A monument to the Decembrist poet A.I. was erected in Lazarevskoye. Odoevsky. Alexander Ivanovich Odoevsky, as a participant in the 1825 uprising, was sentenced to fifteen years of hard labor in Siberia. In 1837, Odoevsky petitioned to be transferred to the Caucasus. At the beginning of October 1837, A.I. Odoevsky is heading to Stavropol. Here I met M.Yu. Lermontov, which turned into a warm and sincere friendship. In April 1839, Odoevsky, assigned to the landing detachment, arrived in Taman. In the summer of the same year he participates in the expedition of General N.N. Raevsky Jr. on the Black Sea coast, and then in the landing at the mouth of the Psezuapse River (now Lazarevskoye). A. I. Odoevsky died of fever during the construction of Fort Lazarevsky.

Loo is a resort village on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus in the Lazarevsky district of the city of Sochi, 18 km from the center. Loo is located in the subtropical climate zone.

The name Loo comes from the name of the largest Abaza feudal family Lau or Low (Loovy). Until 1864, the Ubykhs of the rural community of Vardane lived in the Loo River valley. On the seashore was the village of Ismail Barakai Dzepsh, one of the Ubykh leaders during the Caucasian War. Since 1872, the Loo River basin was part of the Vardane estate.

In the mountains near Loo, at an altitude of about 200 meters, the ruins of a medieval Abkhaz-Alan temple of the 8th-9th centuries have been preserved. The northern wall of the building, made of limestone blocks, is better preserved. The width of the temple is 11 meters, length - 20 meters, the thickness of the walls exceeds one meter. In terms of the nature of the masonry, the temple is close to the Pitsunda and Lykhny temples in Abkhazia (see Loo Temple).

Dagomys is one of the most famous resort complexes ChPK of Russia. It has many advantages, but the main thing is the harmonious combination of a magnificent natural landscape and comfortable hotels.

Dagomys is located between Sochi and Loo, just half an hour’s drive from the resort center, and is perfect for a quiet family vacation, and for children, youth and active rest. The flagship of tourism in Dagomys is the same name health complex and the boarding house "Olympic Dagomys" working in conjunction with it, having behind them rich history receptions of guests high level. The word "Dagomys" is translated from Circassian - "cool, shady place."

In 1896 this place was chosen as the estate of the Russian Tsar Nicholas II. It contained a magnificent park, a significant part of which has been preserved to this day. Modern history"Dagomysa" began 20 years ago. Since 1994, Dagomys has been under the jurisdiction of the Administration of the President of the Russian Federation.

The original Russian settlement is known as the Kuban Post.
After the end of the Caucasian War in 1864, Russia actively began to develop the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus. This process began with the replenishment of retiring soldiers of the Caucasian Corps in the new lands. In the valleys of the Western Dagomys and Eastern Dagomys rivers, sites were provided by soldiers of the second, third and fourth companies of the 2nd Caucasian Line Battalion. That’s how they began to call their villages - Second Company, Third Company, Fourth Company. In the 80-90s of the 19th century, a mass of immigrants from the most different corners Russian Empire.

Around the same time, Armenian settlers from Turkey began to appear on the coast. These people already felt the approach of mass repressions against the Armenians, which in 1914-1915 would turn into real genocide. Armenian settlers also settled in large numbers; in the mountains near Dagomys they founded such villages as Nor-Luys, Lower Armenian Khobza, Upper Armenian Loo.

The most valuable lands near the sea began to be purchased for themselves by tsarist officials, ministers, large landowners and bankers. A large plot of land at the confluence of the river. Dagomys at sea was acquired by the family of His Imperial Majesty, Sovereign Emperor Nicholas II. A subsidiary farm subordinate to the palace was founded here - 2.5 thousand hectares of land and a large cattle farm. A small village was built for the peasants working here - the future Dagomys. By the beginning of the 20th century, only 300 people lived in it. Prince Uspensky managed the royal household. The farm was profitable; most of its products went to the Sochi market, where they were in great demand. Representatives of the capital's nobility vacationing in Sochi considered it an honor to buy products grown on the royal lands. Of course, some of the vegetables and fruits grown here were sent to the Winter Palace, to the imperial table.

After the revolution, a fruit farm was organized in Dagomys. Then tea plantations appeared on the slopes of the surrounding mountains. The talented breeder Job Koshman was the first to prove that tea can be grown in the Russian subtropics.

Golovinka is a settlement of the Circassians-Shapsugs at the mouth of the Shakhe (from the 15th-16th to the 19th centuries the border between them and the Ubykhs passed along the river) called Subashi(same etymology as Shahe) has been known since the 17th century. Mentioned by I. de Lucca ( Subasu, 1st third of the 17th century) and E. Chelebi ( Subish, 1641). According to D. d'Ascoli in the 1st half. XVII century there was a sea stop at the mouth of the Shakhe Abaza(Abbasa), which speaks of the remnants of the Abaza living there at that time.
On May 3, 1838, the artist I.K. Aivazovsky, invited to this expedition by Admiral M.P., took part in the landing at Subashi, commanded by N.N. Raevsky. Lazarev. Later, the artist would paint the painting “Landing at Subashi” and several more on the theme of the Caucasian War. In 1839, Fort “Golovinsky” (hereinafter referred to as Golovinka) was founded here, in the construction of which many Decembrists, transferred from Siberian exile to the Caucasus, took part in the active regiments of the separate Caucasian Corps: poet A.I. Odoevsky and his friends N.I. Lorer, M.M. Naryshkin, N.A. Zagoretsky, V.N. Likharev, A.I. Cherkasov. Named in honor of General E.A. Golovin, commander of the Separate Caucasian Corps from 1837. In 1854, the fort was destroyed for strategic purposes.

Ancient Byzantine fortress "Gotlik" ( district san. Chemitokvadzhe) had a turbulent history. It was built at the mouth of the Gotlik River in Zubovaya Gap (periods: 5th - 8th centuries) and was destroyed by the Khazars, later restored by the Genoese in the Middle Ages. Taken from Wikipedia.

Black Sea coast Caucasus (ChPK) is 600 km of coast from the city of Anapa to the border with Turkey. Now most of it belongs to Russia. 210 km of coastline is occupied by Abkhazia, a republic that has separated from Georgia and is not yet recognized by anyone except Russia and Nicaragua. The rest of the coast is Georgian, and the Autonomous Republic of Adjara is located on it. And Adjara, and especially Abkhazia in Soviet times were considered the best seaside resorts in the country. But then there was the collapse of the USSR, war and post-war devastation. And only in the last 5-6 years the coastal infrastructure began to be restored. Since a generation has already grown up that has no idea about the possibilities of recreation at the ChPK, the editors have prepared a review of the resorts in this region. Let us clarify right away - Abkhazia and Georgia, to put it mildly, do not have any relations with each other (accordingly, you can only get to Abkhazia through Russia). Therefore, to be on the safe side, don’t ask the Abkhazians when they will reunite with “democratic” Georgia, or the Georgians when they will finally recognize the right to self-determination of the “freedom-loving Abkhazian people.”

WHY GO HERE FOR. Definitely not for the sake of comfort beach holiday a la Turkish five stars. The tourism infrastructure in Abkhazia is much weaker even than in Crimea. There is only one hotel in Abkhazia that has three stars - “Boxwood Grove”. And at the same time, vacation will cost more than in Crimea - primarily due to travel costs. And housing is more expensive here. If in Yalta in August you can rent a unit for 150 UAH, then, say, in Gagra it will cost 280 UAH. (by the way, in Abkhazia you should prefer apartments or rooms from private owners, because most boarding houses and sanatoriums are in “worn” condition).

One conclusion suggests itself: it’s worth coming here only to replenish your tourist “trophies” with a new, and very exotic country. And rest assured: this “trophy” will be one of the most valuable in your collection - provided that you know how to ignore the traces of war and everyday inconveniences. After all, the Caucasus is a kind of Mecca for lovers of mountain landscapes. Especially in this regard, it is worth noting the famous high-mountain lake Ritsa. As the locals say, the only thing more beautiful than it is the road to it. And the nature, of course, is amazing - humid and bright subtropics (in contrast to the “dry” Crimea). Another “specialty” of Abkhazia is the New Athos Cave, one of the largest caves in Europe (tourists are brought inside by train).

WEATHER AND BEACHES. The hottest month in Abkhazia is August, when the air temperature rises to 35 °C. In September-October it drops to 26-29 °C. By the end of summer, sea water warms up to 25-26 °C and until October the temperature does not drop below 19 °C. Local beaches are pebble and sand. Most of them look rather unkempt, or even completely neglected.

RESORTS

GAGRA. Due to the proximity to Russian border, where all the vacationers come from, Gagra is crowded and noisy, there are the most entertainment establishments here. The village stretches for 5-6 km along the coast along the highway and rises in blocks up the mountain, very close to the sea. Gagra is clearly divided into old and new. In Old Gagra, on the slopes of the mountains, all the attractions of the city are concentrated, but there is almost no private sector, fewer stores and entertainment. In the south, the so-called New Gagra has a better developed infrastructure.

PITSUNDA. The village is located on Cape Pitsunda in a large pine grove. The route bypasses Pitsunda. Maybe that’s why the war spared this resort. All recreation centers and hotels operate here, the level of comfort is a little better than in Gagra. The most famous boarding houses are “Boxwood Grove” and “Pine Grove”. True, there are fewer entertainment venues than in Gagra.

SUKHUM AND OTHERS. The city suffered greatly from the fighting and has not yet been fully restored, but is gradually coming to life. More and more mini-hotels are appearing, there are no problems with catering. But the beaches are mostly undeveloped. But there is a botanical garden and a famous monkey nursery. Another worthy place to relax is New Athos. In addition to the cave, the local monastery, the ruins of the ancient capital of Abkhazia Anakopia and simply one of the most beautiful coasts of the republic are worthy of attention in this city.

HOW TO GET THERE

Air travel. The nearest airport is Adler (Sochi). You can get here through Moscow.

By railway 30 hours on the Kyiv-Adler train.

From Adler to Abkhazia. You need to take a minibus to the pogra ""post, then cross the bridge and then take a minibus in Abkhazia.

IMPORTANT THINGS

Entry. Ukrainians enter with a foreign passport without a visa. The mark is placed only on the Russian side at exit and entry. At the border post you need to pay a one-time insurance premium (15 rubles per day of stay). In exchange for the fee, an insurance policy is issued, which must be kept until the end of the trip.

Money. To Abkhazia you need to take rubles, and cash. You won't be able to pay with a credit card.

Where to find housing. Traditional methods searching for housing from private owners - just come and start communicating at the bus station or walk around the city - are quite applicable in Abkhazia.

Interethnic relations. Sometimes there is a negative attitude towards Ukrainians, but it does not lead to conflicts.

Black Sea coast of the Caucasus — this is a territory that represents the Black Sea strip Krasnodar region Russia, part of Abkhazia, Georgian Megrelia, Guria and Adjara. The ancient historical name of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus is “Colchis”.

The most famous resorts of the Caucasus are Anapa, Gelendzhik, Tuapse, Sochi, Gagra, Pitsunda, Sukhum, Poti, Abrau-Durso, Dagomys, Lazarevskoye, Matsesta, Khosta, Loo, Adler, Vardane, New Athos and others.

Why is the Black Sea called “black”?

The Black Sea has had many names throughout history - Temarun, Cimmerian, Akhshaena, Scythian, Blue, Tauride, Ocean, Inhospitable, Surozh, Holy.

For example, the ancient Greeks called it “Pont Aksinsky” or “Inhospitable Sea”. Although, later, the Greeks, after successfully conquering the shores of the sea, began to call it “Pontus Euxine,” which means “Hospitable Sea.” 🙂

IN Ancient Rus' in the chronicles of the X-XVI centuries. You can find another name for the “black” sea - this is the “Russian sea”, and sometimes the “Scythian sea”.

The name “black” was given to the sea by the conquerors who came to the shores of the Black Sea to capture these places. They always met resistance from the local population.

Circassians, Shapsugs and Circassians fought for their lands. After which, the conquerors called the sea “Karaden-giz”, that is, “Black”, which also meant inhospitable, unkind.

Sailors believe that the sea is called “black” because there are strong storms here, and the water in the sea turns black.

There is also a version of hydrologists, which says that any metal objects lowered to depth in the Black Sea rise to the surface fairly blackened, due to interaction with hydrogen sulfide, which is contained in the waters of the Black Sea.

The version of hydrologists is closely intertwined with the ancient Turkish legend about the Black Sea. It says that in the depths of the Black Sea there is stored a huge, heavy and magical sword, which the black magician and wizard Ali-Suleiman threw there before his death. The sea did not want to accept such a gift, and to this day, when it gets excited, trying to throw the sword out of itself, it turns black.

What determines the color of sea water?

Why is the color of water in the seas and oceans different color? Blue, gray, light blue, azure, green. Many people believe that the color of the water in the sea depends on the reflection of the color of the sky, but this is only partially true.

First of all, the color of sea or ocean water depends on the composition of the water, on the presence of impurities, salt, sand and other particles in it. The composition of water affects how water can conduct and scatter sunlight.

The more impurities, sand and other suspended particles in the water, the greener the water. The saltier and purer the water, the bluer it is. Many large rivers flow into the Black Sea, so the water in it is rather greenish-blue, and near the coast it is rather green.

The Black Sea coast of the Caucasus is the territory that stretches along the Black Sea coast from the Turkish border to the Taman Peninsula. This zone includes Georgia, Abkhazia and the coastal regions of the Krasnodar Territory.

The fauna of the coast is represented by 60 species of inhabitants. Predators include the lynx, Caucasian bear, jackal and leopard. Roe deer, deer, wild boar, otters, chamois and aurochs also live here. There are many bats.

2 Caucasian bear

In these places a large number of interesting birds, in addition to the usual species, there are also such unusual birds: great buzzard, common eagle, dipper, yellow grouse, Caucasian black grouse, vituten.

7 lamb eagle

9 woodpecker is yellow

10 Caucasian grouse

11 Vityuten - large pigeon

What is scarce here are amphibians and reptiles; sometimes you can see a turtle, there are lizards, snakes, large toads and newts. And from rare species- red vipers and boa constrictors.

The Black Sea coast of the Caucasus is home to many beautiful and amazing insects. The chirping of cicadas can be heard from afar, and sometimes incredibly beautiful butterflies can be seen, for example, the rare oleander hawk moth. Fireflies, large beetles called ground beetles, mollusks and centipedes also live here. There are also insect pests: fruit moths, grape weevils, worms that destroy wooden structures.

Among the marine animals in these places you can find dolphins, seahorses, pipefish, various strange fish, crabs and jellyfish.

The flora of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus includes more than 6,000 species that grow here due to the mild subtropical climate. There are many relict plants: tall juniper, cherry laurel, Colchis holly, rhododendron and others. Rare plants of this region are included in the Red Book of Russia, such as Colchis broom, Colchis boxwood, and yew.

The woody vegetation that covers the mountains is represented by such species as hornbeam, oak and coniferous trees. But in the southern part of the area there are evergreen shrubs, vines, magnolias and palm trees. The climate is conducive to the cultivation of grapes, citrus fruits, tea and other crops.

To preserve rare species of plants and animals characteristic of this region, nature reserves and reserves have been created in the region. The most famous of them is Sochi national park. It preserves the unique nature of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus.

Video: Beautiful nature of the Caucasus.

Started in late XVIII centuries, the conquest by Russian troops of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus turned out to be long and difficult. Only with the end of the Caucasian War did this region completely come under the control of the Russian crown.

Conquest

Victorious and bloody wars with Turkey and the Crimean Khanate allowed Russia to reach the Black Sea and push its borders to the Kuban. However, without establishing control over the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, it was difficult to count on creating a powerful counterweight to the Turkish fleet. First, it was necessary to capture the powerful Turkish fortress of Anapa, built by the French, with a 25,000-strong military garrison and a 30,000-strong urban population, which guarded the exit from the Sea of ​​Azov.

The sultans called Anapa “the key to the Asian shores of the Black Sea,” Russian generals called it “a bone in the throat” that prevented establishment on the Caucasian coast. Among other things, Anapa was a hotbed for the spread of muridism, which sowed hatred of Russians among the mountain peoples.

During the war with Turkey that began in 1787, the close attention of the Russian authorities was focused on Anapa. Already in next year A detachment of General-in-Chief Peter Tekeli was sent to take the fortress, but after a series of fierce battles he did not dare to storm. At the beginning of 1790, a second campaign to Anapa followed, but the 8,000-strong detachment of Lieutenant General Yuri Bibikov, having lost more than half of the fighters, returned empty-handed.

At the beginning of 1791, the Russian command decided on a third attempt to capture the stronghold. Prince Potemkin-Tavrichesky blessed General Ivan Gudovich for the accomplishment, placing at his disposal a corps of 15 battalions, 54 cavalry squadrons and 2 Cossack regiments with a total number of over 15 thousand people. We prepared for the campaign with all care, taking into account previous negative experiences.

To begin with, Gudovich cut off Anapa from possible support from the highlanders and began to build siege batteries. Having received news of the approaching Turkish fleet, the commander decided on a surprise assault. On the night of June 22, 1791, all the siege weapons began a powerful bombardment of the fortress at once. Under the cover of artillery cannonade, the infantrymen reached their starting lines.

By 4 am, the guns fell silent on command, and Russian soldiers climbed the walls. Despite heavy oncoming fire, the attackers still broke through into the city. “The assault was cruel and bloody, the enemy defended desperately for 5 hours. The victory was doubtful, but finally, with the blessing of the Almighty, it was accomplished safely,” Gudovich reported.

However, according to the Peace of Jassy, ​​signed in December 1791, Russia was forced to cede Anapa to the Turks. The final conquest of the “evil fortress of Anapa” took place only on June 13, 1828. Russia, with the help of 26 combat and auxiliary ships with landing troops on board, with the support of a 5,000-strong detachment of Cossacks, finally knocked the Turks out of the most important strategic line.

Strengthening

In 1829, the Treaty of Andrianople summed up the war: Turkey renounced its rights to the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus from the mouth of the Kuban River to Fort St. Nicholas, located south of the modern Georgian city of Poti. Formally, Turkey fulfilled the terms of the agreement, however, by supplying the highlanders with weapons and equipment, the sultans prolonged the confrontation with Russia until the end of the Caucasian War in 1864.

Meanwhile, St. Petersburg gradually spread its influence in the conquered spaces, starting with the construction of fortifications along the entire coastline, primarily in river beds, to prevent penetration into the interior Russian territory Turkish murids and arms dealers. The most important outposts appeared within modern Sochi.

Thus, in 1838, Major General Andrei Simborsky reported to the commander of the Separate Caucasian Corps, Lieutenant General Evgeny Golovin: “Presenting to Your Excellency the plan and profiles of the fortification being newly erected at the mouth of the Socha-Psta River, I have the honor to most respectfully request the Highest permission to call it Fort Alexandria , on the occasion that it was founded on the 21st of this month, on the Highly Solemn Birthday of Her Imperial Majesty the Empress.”

A month after its founding, the size of the garrison of Fort Alexandria (later Navaginsky) already reached 4 thousand people. In total, 17 similar fortifications were erected on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus from 1830 to 1842.

Resistance

The construction of fortifications proceeded to the accompaniment of the incessant resistance of the mountaineers. In February 1840, warlike aborigines captured the forts of Lazarevsky and Golovinsky, but a few months later the Russian landing force recaptured them. In response, regular units carried out a cartel campaign in the valley of the Psezuapse River, destroying 13 villages.

After the retaliation, the mountaineers increased their attacks. In 1846, 19 clashes took place near the Navaginsky fort, and 10 near the Golovinsky fort. Local residents - Abadzekhs - attacked not only the fortified garrisons, but also the soldiers who were collecting firewood, grazing livestock or carrying out construction work.

In addition to the forays of the mountaineers, other misfortunes awaited the military personnel: a humid subtropical climate, unusual for a resident of northern latitudes, poor nutrition, lack of medicine - all this led to scurvy, colds and infectious diseases. Mortality in the garrisons reached alarming proportions. For example, in February 1840, in Fort Golovinsky, out of 230 soldiers, 120 people were sick, in Navaginsky in the same month, 134 people out of 243 were sick.

Gradually the fortifications themselves fell into disrepair. In 1853, Emperor Nicholas I wrote in a report from the head of the Black Sea coastline: “I can’t add anything to the previous; these unfortunate garrisons are probably condemned to destruction; We can’t help this.”

Already at the beginning of 1854, during the Crimean War, all the fortifications of the Black Sea coastline, by decision of the command, were destroyed and the garrisons were evacuated. Russian generals were guided by the fact that the Black Sea Fleet stationed in Sevastopol would not be able to protect the forts, and they were not able to independently defend themselves against long-range enemy artillery and attacks from the highlanders.

Development

With the end of the Caucasian War in 1864, Adjutant General Nikolai Evdokimov proposed a plan to complete the conquest of the Caucasus coast. The mountaineers were given a choice: either they moved to the Kuban Plain, where the Cossacks could control them, or they emigrated to Turkey. Most of the elders of the Circassians and Abkhazians agreed to go to Kuban, but the Ubykh leaders chose the Turkish option.

Unfortunately, the resettlement of the highlanders to Turkey turned into a real tragedy. Weeks and months passed while waiting for the Turkish ships, all the food was eaten, famine came, followed by illness and death. The mountaineers died in the thousands; they were buried right on the shore, buried in the sand. The Turkish skippers eventually sailed, but no more than half of all migrants reached the coveted shores.

The empty lands of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus began to quickly be replenished with new settlers. About 800 Kuban residents and retired Black Sea Fleet sailors with their families were forcibly resettled here. Between modern cities 12 villages were founded in Tuapse and Gelendzhik. The establishment of these settlements had military-strategic purposes - the protection of annexed territories.

However, as once the soldiers of the regular army, the Cossacks and sailors were unable to adapt to local conditions. They tried to engage in farming, but the crops of grain and potatoes were lost in the unusual climate. The settlers were doomed to starvation, and many of them were forced to leave the colonies.

But the authorities do not give up and send residents from the Central and Western provinces of Russia to the Caucasian shores. Russians, Ukrainians, Belarusians, Moldovans, and Estonians appear here. These lands are spontaneously inhabited by Georgians, Armenians and Greeks. Gradually, deserted places are settling in and adapting to the needs of their new owners.

Today the village of Estosadok reminds us of the first Estonians in the Caucasus, and Moldovka reminds us of the Moldovans. But the colonists did not rename many Adyghe place names. There are still rivers Shakhe, Psou, Kherota, Mzymta, Psezuapse, settlements Sochi, Khosta, Dagomys, Kudepsta, Dzhubga.